Iechyd da (cheers) to the Welsh distillery scene

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St David, the sixth-century bishop and patron saint of Wales, was reputedly a rather abstemious chap who survived on nothing but leeks and water. Still, if you’re organising a knees-up in his name on St David’s Day, which falls on 1 March, you’ll find plenty of great Welsh drinks to fuel the party. Wales has been distilling hooch in some shape or form for centuries – but Welsh whisky was only granted its own geographical indication in 2023. Under the new rules, all Welsh whiskies must be distilled and aged in Wales, and also be distinguished by “lightness” of character – take that how you will.

There are now more than half a dozen distilleries making Welsh single malts. Penderyn (from £42 for 70cl) is probably the best known; I also like Aber Falls, which sits at the foot of the scenic Rhaeadr Fawr (Aber Falls) waterfall in North Wales. Its signature single malt, which is made with 100 per cent Welsh barley, won gold at the International Spirits Challenge 2024 – it’s aged in a mix of casks and has notes of crystallised fruit, vanilla and a dry, lightly spiced finish. The distillery plans to release its “most exclusive” collection to date in 2025 and 2026.

There’s plenty to fuel a knees-up in St David’s name

While walking the Pembrokeshire coast last Easter, I paid a visit to the charmingly wonky St Davids Cathedral and got stuck in to the national beers. One of the biggest names on the new-wave craft scene is Newport’s Tiny Rebel, which specialises in creative twists on classic styles served with a dose of humour. Try the Clwb Tropica, an IPA bursting with fruity hops, or the velvety Coal Drop stout (available in select bars and pubs). Another Cymru brewer with a devoted following is Polly’s in Mold, North Wales. A new taproom and restaurant showcasing its fresh, hop-forward beers – try the juicy Floret extra pale ale – is set to open in Mold this spring. When it comes to ale, the malty Double Dragon by the sixth-generation Felinfoel Brewery is a favourite of connoisseurs. If you’re in St Davids itself, stop for a pint in The Bishops, a popular whitewashed pub on the main square.

Wales is at the outer limits of viable wine terroir, but Welsh vineyards do exist. The family-run Dell Vineyard in Monmouthshire, south-east Wales, makes a Pinot Noir-based rosé, Y Lleidr (The Thief), with wonderful zip. Ancre Hill, not far away, is more a favourite of biodynamic dogmatists.

One of the best showcases for Welsh produce is the world-famous Abergavenny Food Festival, which takes place in the Monmouthshire market town each September. I was a speaker there last year and it was great fun: two whole days of food and drink demos, tastings, talks and debates culminating in a genteel rave, with fireworks, in Abergavenny’s Norman castle ruins.

It was while I was touring the 30-plus stalls in the festival’s market hall that I came across Still Wild, a tiny outfit that makes excellent spirits and aperitifs flavoured with foraged Welsh botanicals. Highlights include a rosso vermouth made with meadowsweet, elderberries, sloe, rose petals and sweet cicely, and a flinty oyster-shell vodka (£28 for 50cl) that’s miraculous in a Martini. This spring, it will launch a pair of cocktail bitters – Hedgerow and Coastal – and a Campari-like aperitif made with rowan and rosehip. A fitting way to say cheers, St David – or, as the Welsh say, iechyd da! 

@alicelascelles