This article is part of FT Globetrotter’s guide to Lagos
I was born in Lagos and spent my early years there until I was 11, when I went to boarding school, initially in Nigeria and then in the UK. Most of my school holidays were spent there, and now I go at least four times a year; last year, weddings, family, and work meant that I made 10 trips to Lagos, almost one a month. Every visit introduces me to a new culinary experience. Growing up there, if you weren’t looking for fast food or traditional local Nigerian food, your choices were limited — there was one “really good” pizza place, one “really good” burger place, one “really good” Lebanese place, etc. That said, these places were indeed really good.
These days, Lagos boasts a much more diverse culinary landscape. Seeing people open thoughtful spaces, experimenting with new techniques or honouring traditions has been especially lovely. Food has always been central to life in Lagos, and now it feels like it’s also the city’s favourite pastime. People are becoming more adventurous with what and where they eat. Dining out in Lagos is a way of celebrating Nigerian culture, getting to know foods from other cultures and sharing experiences. I like to explore new additions to the dining scene as they reflect how Lagos is becoming more of a cosmopolitan, global city.
Àjọjẹ
4 Chuks Onyebuchi Drive, Lekki Phase I, Lagos 106104
Àjọjẹ is an intimate, family-style dining concept centred around the spirit of community. They only have one reservation a day, with one big dining table that can seat 10 or so guests. You can hire the whole space, or you can attend a social event where you book a spot or two on the table to dine and mingle with the other guests.
It’s a curated experience where you feel like you are at home eating great food. They usually prepare question cards that help people open up — it’s quite an intimate evening. The food blends traditional flavours with modern techniques. The menu consists of three courses, with a lot of different options put on the table for each one. On my visit for my cousin’s birthday, these included smoked turkey and walnut salad, salted brioche with wild honey and caramel butter, and then an excellent grilled snapper with brown butter plantain and pumpkin mash. Everything is very fresh and made in house, and each course was paired with a wine. The communal dining and the thoughtful dishes make it feel as much about connection as it is about the meal. Website; Directions
Thai Thai
Flat 3, second Floor, 16 Kofo Abayomi Street, Victoria Island, Lagos 101241
Thai Thai is a family-run restaurant with a cosy, homemade feel, perfect for casual lunches and dinners. The friendly staff and thoughtful design, featuring plenty of plants and greenery, create a comfortable, inviting atmosphere. I love the vegetable spring rolls, Thai green curry, and dumplings — try pairing them with Thai iced tea. On a quiet midweek evening, it always feels like a small, welcoming escape from the hectic Lagos roads (even though it’s located in a busy area). Opening times: Tuesday–Sunday, noon–10pm. Website; Directions
Lagosia
10 Adetokunbo Ademola Street, Victoria Island, Lagos 106104
Lagosia, also located on Victoria Island (it also has an outpost in Ikoyi), epitomises traditional Nigerian cuisine, serving fresh, authentic dishes that stay true to their roots. It delivers exactly what one expects from a Nigerian restaurant: very flavourful and filling, making it a go-to for anyone craving genuine local food. Here, I would order the seafood okra, a soup made with okra, peppers, chillies, locust beans and spinach cooked in palm oil. You will probably find all the different “soup and swallow” options from many tribes across Nigeria. Swallow is a dough-like complement made from staple foods in Nigeria such as yam, cassava, and plantain and turned into a dense paste that you then dip in the soup. It is typically starchy and quite filling; the closest western comparison is mashed potatoes. The pricing is mid-range — but for me, it’s somewhere I always trust will deliver. Instagram; Directions
NOK by Alára
12A Akin Olugbade Street, Victoria Island, Lagos 106104
NOK is a staple of Lagos’s dining scene, celebrated for its take on pan-African cuisine. It offers a variety of dishes in contemporary or traditional styles. I recommend sitting in the garden and choosing from the grill menu. I often order chicken suya and goat rolls to start. For a main, my favourite dishes are the oxtail hotpot and the pounded yam and egusi, a soup made with melon seeds.
It’s also a good spot for drinks with friends, as they make great cocktails like the tamarind margarita — tamarind-infused tequila, cinnamon syrup, lime juice and ginger ale — and the Light@Heart: Musgrave pink gin, grapefruit juice, rose syrup, soda water and hibiscus. The interior and overall decor showcase the brilliance of Nigerian craftsmanship, and the ambience, especially in the evenings, makes it a memorable experience beyond the food itself. Opening times: Tuesday–Thursday and Sunday noon–4pm and 6–10pm; Friday–Saturday, noon–4pm and 6pm–10.30pm. Website; Directions
SLoW
2 Musa Yar’ Adua Street, Victoria Island, Lagos 106104
SLoW draws inspiration from Latin America and west Africa. It is ideal for family lunches and has a metropolitan vibe, often with a freeform jazz band playing. The sea bream, Peruvian rice and duck croquettes are must-tries, and the extensive cocktail menu caters to all tastes. As one of the more upscale restaurants in Lagos, SLoW offers a sophisticated dining experience. If you go with a big group, you are better off making a reservation, although they also do walk-ins. It’s the kind of place where everything, from the food and drinks to the atmosphere, makes you want to linger. Opening times: Monday–Friday, 8am–midnight; Saturday-Sunday, 10am-midnight. Website; Directions
XO Bakery
4a Akin Olugbade Street, Victoria Island, Lagos 106104
XO Bakery is probably my favourite breakfast spot in Lagos. It offers freshly baked goods and breakfast options that keep patrons returning for more. The freshly baked sourdough bread, bagels and croissants are probably the best in Lagos, and they also do great pancakes served with maple syrup, bacon, and eggs. The pastries are consistently fresh, and it’s the kind of place where you can grab a quick bite or spend your morning and take meetings from there. Opening times: Monday–Saturday, 7am–10pm; Sunday, 10am–8pm. Website; Directions
Iré Hassan-Odukale is the co-founder of Ikoyi, 180 Strand, London WC2R 1EA
What’s your favourite eatery in Lagos? Tell us in the comments below. And follow FT Globetrotter on Instagram at @FTGlobetrotter
Cities with the FT
FT Globetrotter, our insider guides to some of the world’s greatest cities, offers expert advice on eating and drinking, exercise, art and culture — and much more
Find us in Lagos, Madrid, Copenhagen, London, Hong Kong, Tokyo, New York, Paris, Rome, Frankfurt, Singapore, Miami, Toronto, Melbourne, Zürich, Milan, Vancouver, Edinburgh and Venice
