There’s something hypnotic and calming in watching bees going about their business. “Nestling closer to the ground, attuning your ears to the unique hums of different species and seeing the intricate design of pollinating insects feeds a deeper hunger in which modern life has made us deficient,” says Rachel de Thample, in-house fermentation specialist at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage HQ and co-author of the new River Cottage Handbook No 19: Bees & Honey.
Beekeeping has become a hot topic. Habitat loss and climate change have wreaked havoc on the nesting sites of these environmentally essential pollinators; since 1930, 98 per cent of wildflower meadows in the UK have disappeared. “Creating a landscape for bees and nourishing them is the best way to help,” says de Thample. But striking a balance between honey bees (which are thriving) and wild bees is key.
“The increase in people keeping honey bees in their gardens is putting pressure on the natural system,” says de Thample. “At the time of writing the book, London had the most congested bee population in the country. This can be detrimental.” As well as creating competition for food — among other pollinators as well as wild bee species — it can lead to increased levels of disease.
“You can enjoy bees without ever having to don a veil and a pair of stout gloves,” offers Fearnley-Whittingstall, adding that there are significant benefits for wild bee nurturers as well as bees. “The joy of seeing pollinators busy at work is a huge [mood] booster.”
At the most basic end of the spectrum is growing wildflowers. Bees love purple, blue and pink flowers (they can’t see red, apparently), but even a herb box will attract them. To encourage bee habitats, mow your lawn less (join #NoMowMay, the annual campaign by Plantlife) and allow your garden to grow wild.
Those without a garden can look into supporting local “pollinator pathways” — pesticide-free corridors of native plantlife often set up by community groups and local wildlife trusts.
“You can see a sort of ballet unfold throughout the different seasons,” says de Thample. “It’s beautiful and addictive — and slightly less terrifying than having bees buzzing around you while you try to harvest honey.”
For honeybee enthusiasts, many urban areas operate “beehive shares” between local beekeepers. De Thample recommends The British Beekeeping Association and the Natural Beekeeping Trust as resources for getting started.
Those striking out on their own, meanwhile, have a wealth of hives to choose from. Matt Somerville of Bee Kind Hives designed and built a number of the hives at River Cottage, all of which can be constructed at home. The rocket-like, three-legged Freedom Hive consists of a hollowed-out log with a thatched roof, mimicking the natural tree-hollow habitat of honey bees. The Box Tree Hive (designed by Somerville and Fearnley-Whittingstall) “seems the simplest one for any novice,” suggests de Thample. “It requires minimal inspection, which can introduce diseases as well as disrupt the temperature in the hive, which stresses the bees — and you don’t want stressed bees.”
For the more ambitious, the Warre hive is constructed as a tower using separate boxes and wooden strips for the bees to build comb from. “If I were to keep bees and harvest honey, this is the hive I would have,” says de Thample. “Additional boxes can be added at the bottom, allowing the bees to build new areas of comb to expand the colony.”
It takes an enormous amount of effort for a bee to produce even a teaspoonful of honey. Paying attention to their activity is a reminder to be mindful of what you buy and how you use it. It’s easy to see why honey was once prized over gold.
But should you harvest a good amount of honey, de Thample proffers some delicious recipes. A fig and feta salad, and fresh sardines with gooseberries and fennel fronds are both accompanied with a honey dressing — the making of which, should you prefer, need not require any direct contact with bees at all.
“Bees & Honey: River Cottage Handbook No 19” by Rachel de Thample and Steve Minshall (Bloomsbury, £18.99 hardback). Photography by Steve Minshall and Ali Allen
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